Ever since Raf Simmons signed and sealed confirmation as chief creative officer for Calvin Klein, we have been on the edge of our seats waiting to see just what he would do. Even for a man with an immense catalog of timeless creations as the prior lead of houses such as Jil Sanders and Dior, taking over Calvin Klein is a great responsibility and impeccable honor.
To even call Calvin Klein a fashion brand would be an understatement for it is a massive international brand whose influence trickles down from the clothing to the underwear to fragrances and home items. The logo alone has been a trademark to all American fashion. Surprisingly enough, the logo was not used once in the advertising campaigns that served as a cliffhanger for what we might see in Simmons first Fall 2017 Ready to Wear presentation rightfully called By Appointment.
The show led the marches inside the Midtown Manhattan headquarters for Day 2 of New York Fashion Week. The perception of the space was artistically set with three-dimensional works in a contemporary color scheme. Americanism seemed to be the overarching theme of the collection featuring well tailored Wall Street suits and trench coats for both men and women. Defining characteristics of the United States were reflected in the metal-toe cowboy boots and a wrapped skirt exposing the American flag.
Low rise denim and trousers ruled the runway in a way that stood out against the high cinched waistlines that are currently omnipresent in the fashion scene. This look was even more apparent on the topless male models and sheer torso females who wore nothing else but varsity stripes on their sleeves.
Although the stated inspiration behind the collection was American youth, the collection was far from immature. Even the plastic covered fur coats and cocktail dresses could only be worn by a cultivated individual who is sure of their place in this world. Backstage Simmons expresses his ideology behind the collection saying, “American youth is the future of this country. It’s about gathering. It’s intelligent, honest, powerful, beautiful.”