Since his appointment to Loewe, Jonathan Anderson has been recognized by the British Fashion Awards for his ability to revolutionize tradition into a compelling vision of the present. In his Fall 2017 Ready to Wear Collection, Anderson addressed the current time in which the future of fashion is uncertain with a message saying, “You Can’t Take It With You.”
The set design coincided cohesively with the message. The Maison de I’UNESCO was transformed into a pitch black room with just enough light to highlight the rare orchids and the 1920’s artwork that hung from the high walls. The silhouettes were constructed to interact with the venue. Post-show Anderson explained, “It’s the idea that she’s controlling the environment and the environment is controlling her.”
A series of artwork by Steven Meisel foreshadowed the influence of the collection. The women’s campaign featured one particular piece called, “Composition” that depicted a group of unrelated objects floating across the sky on a glass table. In a similar way, many of the garments in the collection were influenced from different time periods but meshed together perfectly to create one look. High volume Edwardian sleeves, oversized fur coats, cashmere, and lace were all crossbred to give the ensemble a polished yet surreal characteristic.
Being one of the oldest leather-goods houses, Loewe has been notorious for exceptional craftsmanship. This season, cuffs and collars took on a new aesthetic with the use of modernized techniques such as needle punching and an artful gold engraving method. The creative artistry blended with the cinematic elements made the Loewe show one that stood out during Paris Fashion Week.